"Because it is there."

So said George Mallory when asked why one should climb Everest. Much the same answer, in this humble crafter's opinion, could be offered to the question "Why knit a Toshiyuki Shimada design?"

To celebrate the festive season with all my knitter friends, may I present a review of Mr Shimada's new book, Vintage Knitting in Tradition  (ニット・コンチェルト or literally translated as "Knit Concerto").

Fans of Japanese knit designs would not be unfamiliar with Mr Shimada. He is the creator of New Style of Heirloom Knitting (ニットに恋して), a much-loved book that has garnered a following even amongst non-readers of the Japanese language, and which contains such illustrious designs as the Mountainash shawl and the Am Kamin sweater (which has its own knit-along).

I completely missed out on the New Style of Heirloom Knitting (NSHK) bandwagon the first time round. It was only during yet another foray to my local Kinokuniya that I spotted the newly-published Vintage Knitting in Tradition (VKT), and it's been love at first sight. So much so that I went back and bought a copy of NSHK as well. There are some mentions of VKT on the blogosphere, but as I have yet to come across a detailed review, here's my attempt!

First and foremost, I think it is safe to say that VKT is bigger and better than NSHK. For a start, it has 24 patterns (19 garments + 5 coordinating accessories) compared to NSHK's 17 (of which 7 were coordinating accessories). The patterns are divided into 4 sections: Fairisle, Shetland Lace, Aran and Nordic - plenty of beautiful projects and technical challenges to keep knitters of varied interests happily entertained. As can be expected, variations of earlier designs in NSHK do crop up from time to time. For instance, devotees of NSHK will not fail to recognise the acorn leaf motif in Bruyeres (right), this time modified and employed in a cardigan. I am completely smitten by this. Can you believe that someone has already successfully made this? That is some serious knitting, folks.

I also adore the Ce qu'a vu le vent d'ouest (left)- being francaise-challenged I'll just call it West Wind. Do you hear the siren call of that convoluted central lattice cable panel? Aran enthusiasts take note: the back of the sweater features a more conventional but no less beautiful central cable panel. Is this fatal attraction?

The two breathtaking aran sweaters notwithstanding, I humbly submit that this book is really all about the colour work. No doubt, NSHK featured a few stunning colour designs too, but colour is where VKT really comes into its own. The front and back covers both feature colour patterns from the Nordic section of the book - La Primevera, a sleeveless vest (see top of this post) and Der Blumenbrief, a long-sleeved yoked pullover (right). I find the colours on La Primevera remind me of intricately woven Japanese brocade. As for Der Blumenbrief - see how the colours just melt into each other on the yoke? The effect is like an impressionist painting rendered in yarn.

The rest of the Nordic section is no less captivating. The Midnight Sun (far left) is a yoked cardigan with painstaking colour work on the ribbing and button bands. Skogen sover (left) is an entrelac sweater with good unisex appeal, although some re-sizing may be necessary to make it fit adult men. It is not unlike its cousin Winterreise from NSHK, but somehow I find the contrasting panel of stockinette on Skogen sover even more attractive.

The Fairisle section, with eight garment patterns and three coordinating accessories, is the largest in the book. Naturally, it is bursting with colour. I could literally marvel at Mr Shimada's use of colour all day.

Having never attempted stranded work nor steeking, I do find the idea somewhat daunting, but these designs are serious, serious motivators.

Again, with suitable modifications for colourway and sizing, quite a few of the patterns can be adapted for men.

My personal favourites in this section all happen to be vests: Scherzo (above left), Burgundy Rondo (above right) and Der Hirt auf dem Felsen (left).

While I'm no expert on lace, I did find the patterns in the Shetland Lace section (total of three shawls and a lace cardigan) very attractive. Of the shawls, my personal favourite is Myrthen (right), simply for its earthy sturdiness. And even though I doubt I'd ever get around to making this (or bear to wear it in the unlikely event that I do knit it), I simply had to include a photo of the cardigan Salut d'Amour (below).

As was the case with NSHK, all instructions and charts in this book are in Japanese. Each pattern is offered in only 1 size, ranging from finished bust size of 96cm (37.8") to 108cm (42.5"). This means some manual re-sizing may be inevitable for knitters attempting the patterns. Unlike NSHK, and uncharacteristically for a Japanese knitting book, there are no recommended yarn brands beyond the generic mention of "shetland yarn" or "aran-weight yarn" or "lace-weight yarn". I suspect something like Jamieson's 2-Ply Shetland Spindrift should work beautifully for most of the colour patterns.

Very helpfully, the book contains a few pages featuring life-size photographs of the yarn in the exact colours used for each pattern - I imagine it will be a handy reference for readers deciding which yarns to buy. The inside back cover of the book does suggest that kits for the patterns are available for sale - but to decipher exactly how to go about purchasing them would take me far beyond my limited Japanese linguistic abilities.

Here's a full listing of the patterns in the book:

Fairisle section:

• Burgundy Rondo (vest)
• Woodland Sketches (vest, with coordinating ear-flap hat)
• Scherzo (vest with buttoned turtleneck)
• Schwanengesang (long-sleeved cardigan)
• Der Hirt auf dem Felsen (vest)
• Le journal du printemps (vest)
• Ballade (long-sleeved pullover)
• Jazz Wistaria (vest, plus coordinating mittens and gloves)

Shetland Lace section:

• Cloches a travers les feuilles (rectangular shawl)
• An den Fruhling (rectangular shawl)
• Myrthen (triangular shawl)
• Salut d'Amour (long-sleeved cardigan)

Aran section:

• Bruyeres (long-sleeved cardigan with collar, plus coordinating bobble hat)
• Ce qu'a vu le vent d'ouest (long-sleeved cardigan)

Nordic section:

• Solveigs sang (long-sleeved pullover)
• Skogen sover (long-sleeved turtleneck pullover)
• La Primavera - front cover pattern (vest, plus coordinating alphabet sampler)
• Der Blumenbrief - back cover pattern (long-sleeved yoked pullover)
• The Midnight Sun (long-sleeved yoked cardigan)

In case you're wondering why the patterns are named the way they are, I think the answer lies in the fact that besides being a masterly knitter, Mr Shimada is also a classical musician who received formal training in a number of European countries. Seriously, folks, how cool is that?

To sum it all up, I consider this book beyond inspirational. It's aspirational - we buy it because it shows us the kind of knitter that could exist in this world. It's the sort of pattern book that spawns New Year's resolutions. And on that note, may 2008 ring in lots of fibre and non-fibre-related goodness for everyone!

Details:

• Vintage Knitting in Tradition ニット・コンチェルト by Toshiyuki Shimada 嶋田俊之
• Published 31 Oct 2007 by Nihon Vogue
• ISBN 978-4-529-04457-8

Comments

[Melinda]

Thanks for your comments on my blog! I would love to come on Saturday, but that is the day we are leaving for a short trip to Malaysia. Seems like you have quite a thriving knitting/fibre culture here in Singapore?

[Anna]

What beautiful knits! I especially like the cabled sweaters. Cables are so much fun!

[Tina (Tichiro)]

Thank you for the review - now it's your fault that I bought both books ;-)

Greetings from Hamburg, Germany

Tina *addicted to japanese patterns*

[Marie]

Thank you for such a wonderful review! New Styles of Heirloom Knitting was wonderful and this looks even better! I just had to go and order it from Kinokuniya right after I read your review. :)

[michelle]

Thank you. I have NSHK and have yet to get up the nerve to try any of the patterns. I love looking and dreaming though, so I'll keep an eye out for it.